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Customers visit Barretta Garden Center
everyday with a host of gardening questions. We have a Plant
Clinic at both of our stores, which is staffed by garden experts
who can diagnose any plant problems that you may be having,
and answer any gardening questions that you may have. If you
are experiencing a plant problem, we recommend that you bring
a fresh sample that is representative of the problem into
the garden center, and we will diagnose it and discuss control
recommendations with you.
For your convenience, we have listed below a sampling of some
of the most common questions that we receive at the garden
center, along with brief answers to each question. Simply
click on the categories that you are most interested in learning
about.
Pruning
& Fertilizing
Q: When should you prune spring flowering
shrubs and trees such as azaleas, rhododendrons and lilac?
A: Since these plants bloom on previous year's wood, they
should be pruned after they bloom or else you will sacrifice
flower buds. Pruning should be done within six weeks after
blooming. This is also a good time to feed them. We recommend
flowering plant food, a high phosphorous formula that will
promote flowering.
Q: When should you prune summer flowering shrubs and trees
such as spirea, butterfly bush and crape myrtle?
A: These plants should be pruned in the early spring before
the new growth begins to emerge. Bigleaf, Oakleaf and Climbing
Hydrangeas are an exception to this rule. They are late spring
or summer flowering, but they bloom from the previous years
growth. So, they should be pruned only if necessary and after
flowering.
Q: When should you prune evergreens?
A: Most evergreen trees and shrubs should be pruned either
in the early spring (for a natural appearance) or late spring
after the new growth has flushed out (for a more formal appearance).
This includes both needled evergreens such as yews, spruce
and juniper and broad-leafed evergreens such as boxwood, hollies
and laurels. One notable exception to this rule is the spring-flowering
group of evergreens such as azaleas and rhododendrons, which
should not be pruned until after they have bloomed or else
you will sacrifice flowers. These plants should be pruned
within six weeks after they bloom for that is when they will
begin to set buds for next year's blooms.
Q: When should you prune shade trees?
A: We recommend pruning shade trees in late February /
March. This is also a good time to feed them with a good quality,
slow release fertilizer. We recommend tree and shrub food,
which contains slow release nitrogen, sulfate of potash, iron
and other micro-nutrients.
Q: When should you prune roses?
A: Major pruning on roses should be done in March. Cut
the roses back to about _ their current height (usually about
18Ó – 30Ó). Other light pruning can be
done at other times of the year as needed, such as during
the fall to remove long branches that might break off during
the cold windy winter.
Q: When should you cut back liriope and ornamental grasses?
A: Both of these plants should be pruned in March. It
is important that these plants be cut back each year, because
they put out new foliage from the ground to replace last year's
growth, which will not rejuvenate itself. Liriope should be
cut back to about 3Ó. How far you cut back ornamental
grasses will depend on the age and size of the plant. A smaller
grass that has only been in the ground for a few years should
be cut back to about 4Ó- 5Ó, whereas a larger
one that has been there for some time will need to be cut
back to about 6Ó – 8Ó. When cutting back
larger grasses, instead of cutting straight across the top
of the plant, make your cut in the shape of a mound with the
center a few inches above the sides. Cutting back large ornamental
grasses straight across the top of the plant could lead to
the middle of the plant dying out, meaning that it will not
come back.
Q: When should you fertilize most trees and shrubs?
A: Most plants will benefit from a spring and fall application
of fertilizer. We recommend using Barretta's custom blended
plant foods, which contain slow release nitrogen, sulfate
of potash and micronutrients. Choose flowering plant food
for flowering trees and shrubs and tree & shrub food for
evergreens and shade trees.
Q: When should I fertilize my annuals and perennials?
A: Annuals will generally benefit from frequent applications
of fertilizer throughout the entire growing season. Using
flowering plant food every 4-6 weeks will keep your annuals
growing and blooming all season. Perennials do not require
as much fertilizer as annuals. Fertilizing with flowering
plant food one time in early spring will promote strong blooming.
Planting & Watering
Q: Should organic matter and starter
fertilizer be mixed into the soil when planting?
A: Yes, we recommend using Super Fine Soil Conditioner
and starter plant food at the time of planting. Please see
our proper planting and watering instructions on the link
above.
Q: Should shrubs and trees be watered after they are planted?
A: Yes, all plants should be watered thoroughly after
they are planted, and then as needed to keep them healthy.
How often you water may vary depending on factors such as
the size of the plant, where it is growing, and how much natural
rainfall we receive. You will need to monitor your plants
water requirements by checking the moisture level of smaller
plants every 2-3 days and larger plants and trees every 3-4
days to determine how dry or wet it is to know when it is
time to water again. Please see our proper watering instructions
above.
Q: How often should plants and trees be watered?
A: The real answer depends on several factors such as
how long the plant has been growing in the landscape, where
it is growing in the landscape and how much natural rainfall
we receive. Obviously a newly planted tree will need more
water from you in a dry season than during a rainy season.
The short answer is that all plants need to be watered as
needed for the first year or so until natural rainfall can
take care of most of their moisture needs. Check the moisture
level of smaller plants every 2-3 days and larger plants and
trees every 3-4 days. If they are moist, leave them alone
and check again in another few days. If they are dry, water
thoroughly. Once you have checked a few times, you will learn
how long it takes your particular soil to dry slightly between
waterings. Please see our proper watering instructions on
the link above for more guidance on watering.
Q: How often should I water plants in containers?
A: Plants growing in containers have a limited about of
soil and therefore a limited amount of moisture for the roots
to tap into, and therefore, need to be watered more frequently
than plants growing in the ground. Monitor your container
plantings daily and water as needed. During the hot and dry
summer months, you may need to water your container plantings
every day. Using a water-grabbing polymer such as Soil Moist
can help reduce the frequency of watering.
Q: Should trees be staked when they are planted?
A: Generally speaking, trees do not need to be staked
when planted. However, if you are planting trees that are
in an especially windy location, then they should be staked.
It is important to know that if you do stake trees, the stakes
should be removed one year after planting. Otherwise, it could
weaken the trunk of the tree and the roots may not develop
the ability to anchor themselves into the soil properly.
Mulching
Q: When should you mulch the garden?
A: Mulching should be done at least once per year. This
can be done at anytime of the year, be it spring, summer,
fall or winter. Many gardeners choose to mulch in the spring
because that is when they are cleaning up the garden for the
year ahead and when a lot of weeds are beginning to emerge.
Q: How deep should you apply the mulch?
A: Approximately 2Ó-3Ó of mulch should be
applied to garden beds, but remember to taper the mulch back
to ground level as you get near the trunk of the plant.
Q: When applying mulch, should you remove the old mulch
first?
A: This depends on several factors such as how often you
mulch, how much mulch you apply each time and the type of
mulch. If you only applied a thin layer of mulch the last
time and it has broken down quite a bit, then it is generally
best to turn the mulch over, work it into the soil and then
add new mulch right on top of the old mulch. That way, it
will continue to breakdown and become beneficial organic matter.
But if you have several inches of old mulch piled up from
previous mulching, you should remove the old mulch before
applying the new mulch.
Q: What is the best type of mulch to use in the Washington
area?
A: All mulches help conserve moisture, retard weed growth
and provide an attractive appearance in the landscape. Simply
choose the mulch that you feel looks the best. Barretta Garden
Center's shredded mulch is our most popular seller, but any
of our good quality mulches will do the trick. In some situations
there may be practical considerations; for example, mulch
chips or nuggets are not ideal for hillsides or slopes for
they can spill out of the beds more easily.
Q: Does mulch have termites?
A: Barretta Garden Center's mulch, and other mulches made
from the bark of a tree as opposed to the tree itself, does
not have termites. Termites must have proper temperature and
humidity to survive and they have only one reproductive queen
in each colony. If a reproductive queen were to survive the
debarking, shredding, double shredding, transport and delivery,
which is nearly impossible, she would starve upon arrival.
Termites feed on cellulose, which is found in wood, not in
the bark. Termites will swarm in the spring to form new colonies.
People often-put down mulch in the spring and assume the termites
came from the mulch.
Lawn Maintenance
Q: How often and when should you
fertilize the lawn?
A: Cool season grasses such as bluegrass, fescue and ryegrass
should be fed once in the spring and two or three times in
the fall during the months of September, October, November
and December. Warm season grasses such as zoysia, (which turns
a tan color from October – April) should be fed one or
two times per year from May-August. We recommend using Barretta's
Premium and Barretta's Select Lawn Foods, which have been
custom blended for the conditions in this area.
Q: Can you seed the lawn and kill weeds at the same time?
A: No, you must either kill weeds first and then wait
3-4 weeks to seed, or seed first and then wait until the new
seed has germinated and been mowed at least twice (about six
weeks) before applying a broadleaf weed killer.
Q: Can you lime, fertilize and seed at the same time?
A: Yes, you can apply all three to your lawn the same
day and then water it in when you are finished. Just remember
you cannot apply a weed killer to the lawn and seed the lawn
at the same time. The next time you are in one of our garden
centers, be sure to pick up our brochure, ÒGuide to
Year Round Lawn Care,Ó which contains detailed instructions
for building a healthy lawn.
Q: When can you seed the lawn?
A: Although seeding can done at virtually any time of
year, the ideal times to seed the lawn is during the fall
between September and October or in the spring during the
months of March or April. These times typically provide cooler
temperatures and more reliable moisture, which makes for ideal
growing conditions. Dormant seeding can also be done in the
late fall and winter, but the seed will not germinate until
the spring.
Q: When can you lay sod?
A: While spring and fall are the ideal times to lay sod,
sodding can also be done at almost any time of year, except
when the ground is frozen. Sod can be laid in the summer months,
but you will probably need to water more frequently. So again,
March through November is typically when sod is laid, but
it can be laid even later if the ground is not frozen and
sod is available.
Q: When type of sod is available?
A: At Barretta Garden Center, we carry three types of
sod. For cool season turf (which stays green year round and
is what most of us in this area have), we carry both tall
fescue and Kentucky bluegrass sod. If you have full sun /
part shade, both varieties will grow nicely. If you have areas
that receive more shade, tall fescue is the best choice. We
also carry zoysia sod, which is a warm season grass that turns
tan in color from October – April.
Q: When is the time to prevent crabgrass in the lawn?
A: Technically speaking, for crabgrass to germinate, soil
temperatures need to be 56 degrees for three straight mornings
measured at 10 a.m. In our areas, that means that crabgrass
preventers should be applied between mid March and early April.
If possible, do this before a good soaking rain. Otherwise,
be sure to apply a _Ó of water to the lawn.
Q: Can you seed and prevent crabgrass at the same time?
A: You can seed the lawn only if you use a product containing
Tupersan to prevent crabgrass. Tupersan stops crabgrass from
germinating while allowing the grass seed to germinate. To
make sure you do the job right the first time, we invite you
to come into the garden center and speak to one of our turf
specialists.
Q: Why do I have moss growing in my lawn?
A: Could be one of several factors such as low pH, lack
of fertility, compacted soil / poor drainage or too much shade.
See one of Barretta Garden Center's plant specialists for
guidance.
Q: What is the best grass seed for my lawn?
A: Tall Fescue is the most popular turfgrass in the mid-Atlantic
region. It is a very adaptable grass, which grows in full
sun or part shade. It is also the most heat and drought tolerant
of the cool season grasses. Tuff Play is a Tall Fescue blend
mixed with a small amount of Kentucky Bluegrass. This combination
of grasses develops a dense, wear resistant lawn for sun or
part shade.
Shady Lawn Grass Seed is for use in heavy shade. It is a mix
of Fine Fescue that is able to compete with trees for sun,
water and nutrients. It is slow growing and takes longer to
establish than Tall Fescue.
Sunny Lawn Grass Seed is a Kentucky Bluegrass blend mixed
with perennial ryegrass. This will develop into a dense, fine
bladed, dark green lawn. It does require more water and fertilizer
than tall fescue.
Q: Should I fertilize at the same time as seeding?
A: Yes, we suggest fertilizing with Barretta's Select
fertilizer whenever you are seeding, or sodding. Barretta's
Select is a high phosphate, slow release fertilizer that will
help the seedlings to establish, without burning.
Trouble Shooting
Q: Why are the leaves on my azaleas
turning yellow in the fall?
A: If you have white blooming azaleas, it is totally normal
for the leaves to turn a pale yellow color in the fall.
Q: Why are the leaves on my azaleas turning burgundy in
the fall?
A: If you have red or pink blooming azaleas, it is totally
normal for the leaves to turn a burgundy color in the fall.
Q: Why are my white pines, arborvitae and hinoki cypress
dropping so many brown needles in the fall?
A: It is totally normal for evergreens to have their interior
needles turn yellow and fall off around October. This is normal
shedding for evergreens.
Q: Why are the leaves on my azaleas (or other broadleaf
evergreens) turning yellow, while the veins inside the leaves
are dark green?
A: This condition could be caused by an iron deficiency
in the plant, often brought about as a result of the pH level
of the soil being too high or too low for that plant. If this
is the case, you can apply iron to the plant and then check
the soil pH to see if it needs addressing. See our staff for
guidance.
Wildlife Damage
Q: Deer are destroying my garden,
any suggestions?
A: Deer browsing is difficult to prevent and a combination
of control strategies will be necessary. Fencing is the most
effective way to prevent deer browsing. The fence must be
a minimum of 7' and the more visible it is to the deer, the
better. Selecting plants that are considered deer resistant
will help to make your garden less attractive to deer, and
using repellents on a preventative basis can help. It may
take some trial and error to find the most effective repellent
for use in your garden. Alternate between repellents to prevent
the deer from becoming accustomed to any one repellent.
Q: Plants are disappearing from my garden, what's up?
A: Check for voles. Voles are burrowing rodents that look
like mice. They tunnel through the soil and feed on plant
roots. Excessive mulch will encourage voles, reduce mulch
to a one to two inch depth. Vole Block is a natural, permanent
deterrent to voles. It is an aggregate material mixed into
the soil at the time of planting. Traps and poisons can also
be used to reduce vole populations.
Q: Moles are destroying my lawn, what can I do?
A: Moles tunnel through the soil in search of insects
to feed on. In the big scheme of things, they are beneficial
critters helping to control insects and aerating the soil.
They can become a nuisance creating raised tunnels through
the lawn leading to scalping of the turf and causing a potential
tripping hazard.
Mole repellents are non-toxic, easy and effective. There are
various formulations of castor oil, sprayed over the lawn
and watered into the soil. Repeat application may be required.
Traps and poisons are also available, but must be used with
caution.
Q: Squirrels are digging in my planters. How can I stop
them?
A: Dried Blood is an organic fertilizer and a reasonably
effective squirrel and rabbit repellent. Dust your planter
boxes with dried blood every 2-3 weeks until the squirrels
lose interest in your planter boxes.
Cultural Practices
Q: How do you raise or lower the
pH level of the soil?
A: Lime will raise soil pH, while garden sulfur or aluminum
sulfate will lower the pH.
Q: My bulbs have finished blooming and the green foliage
looks messy, can I cut them back now?
A: Since bulbs get energy from the nutrients produced
in the leaves, you should wait until the foliage turns brown
before cutting them back.
Q: How do I change the color of my blooms on my hydrangea
from blue to pink?
A: To make the blossoms pink, you need to sweeten the
soil or increase the pH level of the soil. This can be done
by applying lime to the soil.
Q: How do I change the colors of my blooms on my hydrangea
from pink to blue?
A: To make the blossoms blue, you need to lower the pH
level of the soil. This can be done by applying pelletized
sulfur to the soil.
Q: How can I get my wisteria to bloom since it has not
bloomed for years?
A: This can be tricky. Although most wisteria purchased
from a reputable nursery will flower, many native wisterias
can be very stubborn about blooming. In fact, regardless of
what you do, some native wisterias unfortunately may never
bloom. Here are some steps that you can try, however to try
and help them flower. First, fertilize with a high phosphorous
plant food (no nitrogen). Second, prune them back heavy in
June to stimulate growth. Third, you can try root pruning,
by taking a shovel and making a series of cuts in the ground.
Making a circle around the tree about several feet out from
the main trunk, take a shovel and cut into the ground about
every 12Ó. So if the circle were a clock with the tree
in the middle, make cuts at 12, 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10. By cutting
the roots, you are stimulating growth, which often will encourage
flowering.
Insects
Q: What are the white cottony balls
that are all over my hemlocks?
A: They are Hemlock Wooly Adelgids. This is an insect
pest that sucks sap from the tree. The tree is gradually weakened
and eventually killed by the insects. Spraying with horticultural
oil, or drenching the roots with a systemic insecticide can
control hemlock Wooly Adelgid. Bring a sample to our Plant
Diagnostic Clinic and we will confirm the problem and make
specific control recommendations for you to follow. Always
follow label directions.
Q: What are the white specks all along the stem of my euonymus?
A: These white specs are euonymus scale. Scale are insects
that suck sap from the plant resulting in poor growth, branch
dieback and death of the plant. Scale insects can be difficult
to control and proper timing of spray applications is critical.
There are two generations each year of euonymus scale. The
spring generation is treated in mid and late May. The summer
generation is treated in early and mid August. There are various
insecticides labeled for use on euonymus. See our staff for
guidance and specific control recommendations.
Q: What are the bags of caterpillars that form in the crotch
of branches on my cherry tree?
A: The Eastern Tent Caterpillar is one of our earliest
insect pests, hatching in early April. The caterpillars eat
the foliage of cherry and plum trees while building ugly,
web-like nests. They can easily be controlled with Thuricide,
a biological insecticide. Spray the foliage of the tree and
the caterpillars will ingest the thuricide (always follow
label directions). See our staff for guidance.
Q: What are the bags that look like Christmas tree ornaments
hanging from my arborvitae?
A: These are bagworms, caterpillars that feed on a number
of different needled evergreens. They can be controlled with
Thuricide, but it must be applied when the caterpillars are
young, around June or early July (always follow label directions).
If you discover the bagworms later in the year, remove them
by cutting them from the tree and throw them out with the
trash.
Q: What are the black spots that are all over my rose bushes?
A: This is a disease called black spot. It is a common
and disfiguring disease of roses. Fungicides are more effective
when applied as a preventative disease control. We suggest
alternating between different fungicides to reduce any chance
of disease resistance. Roses will need to be sprayed once
every 2-3 weeks from May through September to keep black spot
and possibly other problems under control. See our staff for
guidance and specific control recommendations.
Q: What is eating holes in the leaves of my hosta?
A: Slugs are the most likely culprits for chewing holes
in hosta leaves. Slugs are most active during wet, cloudy
weather in late spring and early summer. Slug baits offer
easy and effective control of this pest. Sluggo is the most
popular bait because it is approved for use around pets and
children. Always follow the label directions.
Q: Ants are everywhere in my garden, how do I get rid of
them?
A: Ants are beneficial insects. They are scavengers and
predators and do not injure plants. They may become a nuisance
by building mounds in the garden or entering into the house.
Ant mounds can be treated with a drench of permethrin. If
ants are becoming a nuisance entering the house, try placing
a 2'-4' wide band of granular permethrin around the perimeter
of your home. Always read the label directions before using.
Q: What can I do about Japanese Beetles?
A: Japanese beetles can be difficult to control, combining
different strategies will give you the best results. They
spend most of their life in the soil as a grub feeding on
plant roots. Treating the soil with Milky Spore is a long
lasting, natural control for the grubs. Adult beetles may
continue to be a problem in July and August and will require
periodic spraying with insecticides to keep them under control.
Ask one of our plant specialists for recommendations on which
insecticide should be used.
Q: Help, these mosquitoes are driving me crazy!
A: There is now easy answer for this one. Combining a
variety of control strategies will be the most effective approach.
First, eliminate a sources of standing water such a puddles,
clogged gutters, etc. If you have birdbaths, or standing water,
which cannot be eliminated, add Mosquito Bits to the water.
This is a natural product that will not harm pets, people
or wildlife. It is a bacterium that infects only the mosquito
larvae. Protective clothing and insect repellents can also
be effective in preventing mosquito bites. Also consider creating
a habitat for birds and bats, natural predators of mosquitoes.
Spraying the area with insecticides will offer temporary relief
at best and should be used with descretion. See our staff
for guidance.
Q: What about ticks?
A: Ticks are treated much the same as mosquitoes, however
we have fewer control options. Ticks live in tall grass, weeds
and wooded areas. Keeping weedy vegetation under control can
help to eliminate habitat. Protective clothing and repellents
are the most effective approach for preventing tick bites.
Spraying the area with insecticides will offer temporary relief
and should be used with descretion. See our staff for guidance.
Houseplants
Q: Why are the leaves on my ficus
tree turning yellow and dropping off?
A: Leaves turning yellow and dropping off is how a plant
responds to stress. The stress can be caused by being too
wet, too dry, too hot, etc. If you contact one of our plant
specialists, we can discuss your situation with you and determine
what might be happening. Ficus plants will frequently react
to the stress of being moved from one location to another
and will drop leaves for the initial 2-4 weeks as they become
acclimated to their new environment.
Q: What is the sticky substance on the leaves of my houseplants?
A: The stick substance is honeydew, a substance secreted
by sucking insects. The most common cause for this in houseplants
is brown scale. Brown scale is difficult to see, and they
do not look like insects you are familiar with. Brown scale
attach to the leaves and twigs of plants and look like bumps
on the plant. You can apply horticultural oil and other products
to control the scale. See a member of our staff for specific
product recommendations.
Q: When is the time to bring my hibiscus and other tropical
plants indoors for the season?
A: Tropical plants should be brought indoors when nighttime
temperatures are going below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Consider
spraying the plants with an insecticide such as horticultural
oil, or permethrin to prevent bringing any insects in with
the plants. See our staff for specific product recommendations.
Always follow the label instructions.
Q: In general, when should houseplants be re-potted to
allow room for adequate root growth?
A: If your plants slow down in their growth rate, the
soil seems to be drying out rapidly, or you see roots coming
through the bottom of the container, it is time to repot your
plant. When it is time to repot, select a container just slightly
larger than the one it is currently in and check to see that
it has drainage holes. Loosen up the roots of the plant, place
it in the new container at the same depth as before and add
additional potting media such as potting mix. Water thoroughly
to settle out any air spaces.
Q: Do I need holes in the bottom of my pots for drainage?
A: Yes, good drainage is essential for healthy plant growth.
Pots that do not have drainage holes are best used as decorative
containers. You can place a container that has drainage within
the decorative pot if you like.
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