To complete your planting project, you will need the following:

• round point shovel (for digging the hole)
• organic soil additive (to amend the soil)
• starter plant food (to get the plant off to a healthy start)
• slow-release fertilizer (to provide long lasting nutrients to the plant)
• pair of pruners or cutting knife (to cut string and burlap on a balled and burlapped plant or to scour the root ball of a container plant)
• mulch (to cover the soil, conserve moisture and keep weeds down)
• garden hose (to water upon completion of planting)

STEP 1:
Dig a hole that is at least 6” wider than the root ball on all sides and slightly shallower than the root ball is deep. The goal is to plant high with the top of the root ball slightly above ground level (1” – 2” high for smaller plants and 2” – 4” high for larger plants and trees). It is important however, to remove the berm once the plant becomes established (within 1 year). For balled and burlapped plants, cut the string from around the trunk at this point and cut the burlap away from the top of the root ball as well. This will keep the string from girdling the trunk and ensure that moisture gets down into the root ball. The burlap and wire basket that is left on the bottom and sides of the root ball will naturally rot away.

STEP 2:
Remove the soil from the hole and place it in a pile on the ground next to the hole (if you want to keep soil off of grassy areas and walkways, spread a tarp or piece of plastic liner down first). Next, we want to improve this pile of soil that came out of the hole by amending it with a good quality organic soil conditioner such as Super Fine soil conditioner or Virginia Fines pine bark. The mixing ratio should be approximately 1/3 soil additive to 2/3 existing soil. This amended soil will be used as back fill.

STEP 3:
Plants that we carry at the garden center are available in one of two ways – container grown or balled and burlapped (B&B). There is a difference in the way these two types of plants should be planted, so please follow the instructions below.

• Container Plants: Remove the plant from its container and using a knife or pair or pruners, cut into the root ball at least 1” deep from top to bottom, spacing the cuts approximately 3” – 5” apart around the entire root ball. Now using your hands or a hand-held cultivating tool, loosen or scour the outer most roots so that they are no longer entangled in a circle around the root ball This will allow the roots to more readily absorb water and grow out into the surrounding soil. Then place the root ball in the hole with the top of the ball slightly higher than ground level.

• Balled and Burlapped Plants: With the burlap (and in some cases wire basket) still on, place the plant in the hole with the root ball resting on firm ground, making sure that the top of the ball is slightly higher than ground level. Do not attempt to remove the burlap or wire basket for it may dislodge soil from around the root system. (In the unlikely event that the “burlap” is made of plastic or nylon, however, it should be removed carefully & completely).

STEP 4:
Whether container grown or balled and burlapped, the root ball of the plant must be set slightly above ground level to allow for future settlement. Face the plant in the desired direction, making sure that the trunk is straight. Begin back filling the hole with the amended soil mixture, firmly tamping around the root ball as you proceed.


STEP 5:
When the hole is 2/3 or more back filled, work the proper amount of starter plant food into the soil according to the label instructions. This will encourage root growth and help ensure a vigorous start. At this point, you can water the root ball and surrounding soil to settle the soil, moisten the root system and activate the beneficial nutrients in the fertilizer. If the soil is moist to begin with, watering can be deferred until completion of planting.

STEP 6:
Continue back filling until you reach ground level. Since the root ball is sitting slightly higher than ground level, bring the soil up to the shoulder of the root ball, but not on top of the root ball. For isolated plantings, especially on plants or trees with larger root balls, you can build a berm of soil around the hole. This will create a natural basin that will help maximize the amount of water that soaks down into the root zone.

STEP 7:
At this point (or at some point in the future) you can add a slow release fertilizer around the base of the plant to further promote healthy and vigorous root growth for months to come. We recommend flowering plant food for flowering plants and trees (like roses, azaleas, rhododendrons, cherries and dogwoods) and tree & shrub food for all evergreens and deciduous tress (like hollies, yews, laurels & birches, oaks and maples).

STEP 8:
Place 2” – 3” of a good quality mulch on top of the root ball and surrounding soil. This will help conserve moisture, control weeds and provide an attractive appearance in the landscape. We recommend that you keep the mulch away from the trunk of the tree, so taper the mulch off to ground level as you approach the trunk. There are several mulches to choose from, including shredded hardwood, cypress, or pine bark (which is available in several different nugget sizes).

STEP 9:
Watering – Upon completion of planting, water thoroughly to ensure adequate moisture. Be sure the entire root ball and surrounding soil is thoroughly wet when you are finished planting. The best approach is to water slowly and deeply. This will maximize the water that reaches the root ball and minimize the water that is lost to runoff. Different watering methods are explained later in this brochure.

STEP 10:
Enjoy your plants!